How To Repair A Knife Pin

Here is a pocketknife from my collection that I really like. The handles are great and the blade has excellent snap. As y'all tin see in the pics perchance this has been repinned and maybe this isn't even the original bract, but I still love the knife and wouldn't part with it. So practice you leave it equally is or try to repair the pin on the maker side? On the back side of the knife the pivot is flush with the eternalize and matches well. If you repair this exercise y'all break the knife autonomously to repin it and take a risk on damaging the scales? Could you put solder on the pivot and vitrify the surface area out? I don't recall it can be peened every bit it is because the pivot already is slightly below the eternalize. Or in that location other options? Comments are appreciated.

Mail service by **gringo** » Tue November 22, 2022 4:00 pm

hullo,
is the blade loose? if not, why carp...are you going to apply it?
repair tin exist done without dismantling the entire knife.

several of the best mechanics on AAPK have placed tutorials on the how to's...complete with photos...

Post past **268bull** » Tue Nov 22, 2022 4:22 pm

Bob, Overnice looking sometime Russell. I picked i up identical to yours at an estate sale. But your bract is cleaner than mine. Unless there was excessive blade play, were information technology me, I'd get out it just equally is. Again though, great looking knife

Bull

knives-are-quiet · Post by **knives-are-quiet** » Wed Nov 23, 2022 4:52 pm

The tang stamp on your knife looks somewhat suspicious.
I never saw a J Russell knife stamped just "Russell" with that type of font before.
Only I could exist wrong.
The original bract could have been broke and replaced with a corroded ane, poorly cleaned up and re~stamped.

If you like the pocketknife that's all that matters.
Simply formost it should be safe to apply.
If the bract is loose, the pin can exist tapped to tighten the blade with a pocket-size hammer and so the bolsters can be sanded and polished polish. If the bract is tight and the knife operates well then just sand the bolsters being conscientious not to remove likewise much fabric.
If you do information technology correct you shouldn't see the pin at all.

This is my J Russell like shooting fish in a barrel open jack.
I replaced the main blade which a large piece of the tip was broke off from a across repair donor knife with a near full main bract.
Both the broken primary and secondary blades were too very loose.
Used stainless steel pins instead of original steel ones.
A little darker in color than the bolsters only should last much longer.

(Never parting with this knife).

J W

Post past **just bob** » Thu November 24, 2022 2:57 am

Very interesting and y'all have a keen eye. I will post more on this tomorrow or soon as I have some more info. I thought near trying to spread that pivot out in the hole and and so sand it down with fine grit and that may exist the best option. The bract is tight and functions fine as is. Here is my 2 bract jack with the i blade jack I laready posted. Aren't the fonts on the blade stamp the same. The 2 blade still has bract etching on so must be real?

knives-are-quiet · Post by **knives-are-tranquility** » Thu November 24, 2022 nine:05 pm

I am past far no Russell proficient and accept just this one ii blade jack left in my collection.
Afterward doing some searching around I did see that stamp on other Russell knives.
From what I read your knives are probably a couple of decades "late 1800'south" older than the one I own. But I am not 100% positive.
If anyone else out at that place could requite there 2 cents about these knives information technology would be appreciated.

As for your repair.
I would just sand that eternalize down till information technology is affluent with the pin.
I'd also touchup the other side to match.
You lot won't even notice the small-scale amount of bolster textile that you will sand away and the bolsters will await brand new. I use a belt sander with fine dust. It tin also be done by hand sanding. You tin can also polish to a mirror finish simply if the pocketknife is going to be a user I'd go with a matte as the mirror terminate will scratch up almost immediately.
I do this all the time with my inexpensive heavily used pocket knives when the blades become loose from say "a lot of heavy whittling". I tap the pins till the blades are just tight and sand out the scars left on the bolsters.

The but other style would be to replace the hinge pivot with a new ane.

I accept a few knives that demand tightening.
Probably take a chance to practise it tomorrow.
I volition post the procedure here to give you an idea of how it is done.
J West

Mail service past **Elvis** » Friday Nov 25, 2022 i:24 am

As I was reading through the posts, getting caught up, that was my guess. That Bob's knife was just an older tang postage, only it was however simply a guess until you looked information technology upwards JW. If the bolsters are steel, I'd go with what JW is telling you lot Bob. If they are nickel-silver, yous can clean the area practiced, use some Stay-Clean flux and a driblet of silver solder to make full that small-scale hole and sand it downwardly to meet the remainder of the bolster. Since the knife is tight and works well, on nickel-silverish, I've had this work on sometime knives that really didn't need taken apart otherwise. You've got proficient advice. I simply idea I'd throw y'all another option.

knives-are-repose · Post by **knives-are-quiet** » Friday November 25, 2022 ii:59 pm

Elvis wrote:Equally I was reading through the posts, getting defenseless up, that was my judge. That Bob's knife was merely an older tang stamp, but it was still just a approximate until you looked information technology up JW. If the bolsters are steel, I'd go with what JW is telling you Bob. If they are nickel-silver, yous can make clean the area good, use some Stay-Make clean flux and a drib of silverish solder to fill that small hole and sand it down to meet the residue of the bolster. Since the knife is tight and works well, on nickel-silver, I've had this piece of work on former knives that really didn't need taken apart otherwise. You've got good advice. I merely thought I'd throw you another option.

From Bob'south pictures the bolsters look to be nickel argent to me.
I run into no signs of pitting or rust. But then again they could be steel and the pivot is nickel. That could be the reason the pin is recessed. Nickel silver is softer than steel.
Your procedure is a good thought Elvis so you lot don't loose any bolster material.
Any other idea's why that pin on Bob's pocketknife is recessed without the bract having whatsoever wobble?

J Due west

Post by **Elvis** » Sat November 26, 2022 2:xi am

Taking it apart might merely evidence enough build-up to recoup for the space left from a pocket-sized separation and the pin is probably wedged in tight by now. On a pocketknife that old, that would be my first guess. You could very well be correct near the NS pivot and the steel bolsters. A magnet will tell the tale on that one real quick. If it's steel, silver solder may non stick and may not match that well either. Got a magnet Bob?

knives-are-quiet · Post by **knives-are-tranquility** » Sat Nov 26, 2022 2:fourteen am

knives-are-quiet wrote:I am past far no Russell practiced and have just this ane 2 blade jack left in my drove.
After doing some searching around I did see that stamp on other Russell knives.
From what I read your knives are probably a couple of decades "tardily 1800's" older than the ane I ain. But I am not 100% positive.
If anyone else out at that place could give there two cents about these knives information technology would be appreciated.

As for your repair.
I would just sand that bolster down till it is flush with the pin.
I'd also touchup the other side to match.
You won't even detect the small amount of bolster material that you volition sand away and the bolsters volition look brand new. I use a belt sander with fine dust. It can also be done by hand sanding. You lot can also polish to a mirror end but if the knife is going to be a user I'd go with a matte as the mirror stop volition scratch up almost immediately.
I do this all the time with my cheap heavily used pocket knives when the blades get loose from say "a lot of heavy whittling". I tap the pins till the blades are just tight and sand out the scars left on the bolsters.

The only other manner would be to replace the swivel pin with a new one.

I have a few knives that need tightening.
Probably have a chance to do information technology tomorrow.
I volition post the process here to give you an idea of how it is done.
J Westward

_____________________________________________________________________
:BLADE TIGHTENING:
_____________________________________________________________________
This is a cheap China Schrade I purchased new for whittling or stripping bark.
Main bract was a fiddling wobbly right out of the box.
Got a piddling worse afterward using it on a few projects.

The of import matter in this procedure is to utilise a lot of gentle taps with the opposite side flat on a metallic surface at all times with a very light weight hammer. I utilise a 4oz ball pein.

First yous'll want to find the pin past lightly tapping the bolster till the pin shows through trying to just exit shallow hammer marks.
When you detect the pin concentrate tapping in this expanse checking the play in the blade every few taps till the blade but loses information technology's wobble and is just tight with no play.
If you tighten likewise much y'all volition have a tight action.
After the bract is tight sand the bolsters smooth with a belt sander or by hand using progressively fine grit paper 400 up to 1500.
I go out bolsters on user knives with a matte finish just you can go on to use a buffer to get a mirror end.
I have tried other methods to get the wobble out of a blades from using a vise, C clamps and plastic mallet so not to scar upwards the bolsters.
None of them work as well every bit this i.
I know it looks damaging but the piddling dings tin can exist sanded out.

After tightening the blade and sanded the dings out I also gave the rest of the bolsters a matte finish to lucifer.

:BEFORE TIGHTENING:

:AFTER FINDING Pin:

:Subsequently HAMMERING TILL WOBBLE IS GONE:

:Subsequently SANDING TO A MATTE Finish:

:KNIFE Consummate:

Post by **just bob** » Mon Nov 28, 2022 1:02 pm

I capeesh all of the comments and help that has been posted on this problem. I went back and looked at the pocketknife and I call back it does take n/s bolsters. I too think that someone has been into the knife. There are file or grinding marks within the torso of the knife. Don't know why, only maybe they changed blade in it? The handles appear original and friction match the book. I likewise think what happened on this has happened to me and that is turning down a pin to fit a hole. If you put a pin in a drill and try to turn it downwards on a belt sander information technology is and so easy to taper the pin. If the pivot is tapered when you tap information technology in you get a good, flush fit on one side and a sloppy fit on the other. That gap around this pin is deep. It may be possible to tap it plenty and spread information technology out then sand information technology down? It might as well be ameliorate to put a drop of solder on it and so just clean that up. I like this knife and hate to screw information technology upward. The blade has a tight fit with excellent snap. Who was it that said "leave well enough lone" ? That may be the best option of all. I know there are a lot of actually skillful pocketknife tutorials on hither merely have never seen one that addresses this specific problem. If that does exist could someone signal it out to me. Cheers.

knives-are-quiet · Mail by **knives-are-quiet** » Monday Nov 28, 2022 one:47 pm

Similar y'all said Bob, "If it isn't broke don't fix it.
She don't need to be perfect to do the task the knife was intended for.

Mail past **knifemaker3** » Mon Nov 28, 2022 3:59 pm

Another tip.....place some shim stock on each side of the blade upward tight against the pivot pin earlier starting to peen the pin. This helps to continue from locking the knife upward when peening. A locked upwardly blade tin can be fixed by driving a wedge into the pivot area to loosen merely can result in unwanted damage to the knife.

Feeler gauges from your local automobile supply store work nifty for this. Been awhile since I've done it so I'd have to look to run across which thickness gauge I use....I think .001 or .002....

Mail service past **merely bob** » Mon Dec 05, 2022 4:35 am

Look at this when you lot get a hazard. On this information technology looks like the original hole in the bolster has been filled and a new hole and pin accept been put in. Not a quality repair either. I don't remember the blades are Russell and the scales are awful looking.
It's ebay item number - 290641740786 - if the below link doesn't piece of work.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Old-Russell-Bar ... 43ab9903f2

knives-are-quiet · Post past **knives-are-quiet** » Wed Dec 07, 2022 8:46 pm

That'south a total re~due and a poor 1 at that.
Or the best the person could practise with what was left of the knife.
Everything looks original except the scales.
The blades and bolsters were sanded to hell.
Huge pins replacing the originals.
What a mess. Would have been worth more if left lone.

Wow~someone actually bid on it.
25 bucks. Not worth a penny to me....
Someone's got more money than they know what to practice with.
J W

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